Horse care info

[dakota2mariah]

If any one is interested I have a message board. There are no members but it is alot of veterinarian care and training information. I created it more as a storage area instead of on my computer to save space here is the link if you want to join to access the info.
www.msnusers.com/CedarGrove. I have compiled quite a bit of info so much so that I am about to have to buy more space

[zjaraam]

Welcome and thank you for posting your site. The only thing to be aware when using the link, is to remove the period at the end, then it goes straight to the site which is great. I look forward to educating myself further and reading what you have compiled. Thank you

[dakota2mariah]

Oh no I can't believe I did that. I know better lol
www.msnusers.com/CedarGrove

[dakota2mariah]

Home Remedies for Horse People




By Jayne Pedigo

In the "olden days" veteran horsemen had their own patented methods for caring for the horses in their stables. Today's horsemen and women have adapted these time-honored remedies and added some new ones of their own. The remedies and ideas shown below are taken from the Horses Discussion forum and thanks go to Karice, Carrie, Deborah, GiddyUpGo and DVietz for sharing them with us all.
Caring for Wounds
Preparation H - aids in the reduction of proud flesh and also encourages hair growth on wound sites.
Meat tenderizer - moistened into a paste takes the sting out of bug bites and stinging nettles.

Turpentine -For sores that won't heal - turpentine on a white cloth wrapped around the sore.

Sugar and Iodine - mix into a paste for use on scrapes and burns - the sugar keeps the flesh from dying and the Iodine fights the infection.

Sugar Water - For a blister or scrape make a poultice of sugar water mixed with some aloe (from the plant) and wrap in place over the wound.



Plain Crest toothpaste - shines up silver on saddles & bridles beautifully.
Caring for Tack
Murphy's Oil Soap - works great to clean leather, very mild.
Kerosene - Soak rusty tools (hoof nippers, fence tools, pliers, etc.) over night a bucket of kerosene to remove rust. Really bad rust may need to be soaked longer.

Oats - Put 2 or 3 cups of whole oats in a 5 gallon bucket, bury the bit in the oats, and rub the oats all over the bit. It gets off dried grass & shines the bit back up.


Caring for The Coat
Wisk - really gets white/grey horses/markings white, but make sure and rinse thoroughly
Simply Green - use to remove those stubborn grass stains.

WD40 - use to put a shine on manes/tails in show ring, also good for getting out burrs and pine sap.

Old fashioned 'Blueing' - a few drops in water to whiten coats and tails.

Vinegar - put in horses feed for natural fly repellant/shiny coat.

Fly Spray: - 2 cups white vinegar, 1 Cup Avon Skin So Soft bath oil (original), 1 Cup water and if you can get it 1 Tablespoon eucaliptus oil. Mix in a spray bottle.

Mane and Tail Detangler: - Mix 1part calgon bath oil beads (dry) to 3 parts water in a spray bottle.

Listerine - Douse the whole tail from top to bottom twice a day. Works great for itchy tails and it helps repel bugs and soothes itchy, irritated skin. Works on manes too!

Liniment: - 2 pints clear alcohol, 2 pints wintergreen alcohol, 2 pints witch hazel, 1/2 bottle store-bought equine liniment. Pour all ingredients into a clean gallon container, top off with white vinegar.




Jello - mixed in with the feed, encourages hoof growth.
Caring for Hooves and Teeth
Chlorox - use in a spray bottle to spray underside of hooves to treat thrush.
Diapers - place on the underside of the hoof and wrap with duct tape - great for holding poultices in place and for keeping abcesses clean between treatments. Can also be used as "Easy Boots".

Baking soda - sprinkle in the feed to help horses with teeth that need floating often.


Miscellaneous
PVC plumbing pipes -, buy these at home improvement centers and use them as jump poles.
Gallon size plastic Milk jugs - can be filled with water or sand for stability. Make great dressage ring markers.

Old car mats - great for putting under hoof at show for applying hoofshine - keeps hoof clean and dry. Also good for kneelling on, etc.

Clear plastic zipper bags - use for organizing things so you can see them, but won't lose them - like braiding materials (precut yarn, clips, threads, needles, pullthru, etc.) and any small items. Label bags, and do a pre-show check to make sure all items are there, and ready to go

[dakota2mariah]

It's a cold wintry day, and I'll bet your horse would just love some cooked food. No, not pizza or tuna surprise, but a flaxseed mash: stick-to-the-ribs comfort food that dispels cabin fever, and is...
a great source of fiber (good for his digestion)
loaded with oil (good for his coat, so you'll have less brushing to do)
great tasting and smelling (so it whets his appetite)
not a "hot" feed (so it won't make even a fresh horse go bonkers In addition flaxseed is relatively inexpensive (far cheaper, for example, than corn oil), goes a long way, and is easy to come by in 25-pound ($11 or so) or 50-pound ($21) sacks at feed or pet stores that sell wild bird seed.

There's just one catch: The mash must cook all day for the tiny, hard seeds to soften, give up their oils and become digestible. That doesn't mean you have to stand over a hot stove stirring, though. Just dump the ingredients into your slow cooker, set it on a clean, safely-out-of-the-way/off-the-floor flat surface (maybe in the tack room), plug it in and leave--if you can. The mash is so fragrant, you may want to spend the day puttering nearby.

How Much to Feed
Give your horse cooked flaxseed at the rate of 1 cup perday, at no more than 25 percent of his total daily grain ration.
Combine equal amounts of raw flaxseed, barley, and oats (deducted from your horse's regular ration). If you choose to eliminate the oats, double the barley.
The ingredients will double with cooking, so 1/2 cup of each will yield 1 cup of cooked flaxseed and a total of 3 cups of mash.
How to Cook It
In the morning, place the flaxseed, barley, and oats in a slow cooker. To avoid boilovers, make sure the pot is no more than half full. (A medium slow cooker is usually good for two horses; a large one comfortably holds enough for five or six.)
Level the dry ingredients and add boiling water to twice their depth. Stir well and set the slow cooker on "high"; when the mash boils (in about two hours for the large pot), turn it to "low" and let it simmer for the rest of the day. (If you're short of time, make sure you cook the mash for at least four hours--or soak the seeds overnight to pre-soften them.)
The mash is ready when it doubles in bulk (mine almost lifts the lid off the slow cooker); gets bubbly and gelatinous; and you can "pop" a couple of seed out of their skins by squeezing them between your fingers. (Be careful! The mash is very hot and exceptionally sticky; it can burn you badly. Scoop out a tiny dollop and let it cool before you test.)
Turn off the slow cooker and cool the mash a bit, then scoop it into your horse's regular grain ration with a handful of bran and a hearty "Bon appetit!"
Throw away leftover or unused mash. It would quickly ferment--and give your horse a world-class tummyache--if you saved it to feed the next day.